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ZAGROS NOMADIC HERDERS

A visit to a remote region of the Zagros Mountains of northern Iraq close to the western border of Iran can take you back in time to a distant culture that remains to this very day. It was about 10,000 years ago in this extremely rugged terrain that goats first became domesticated along with sheep husbandry. Today, it is the ethnic and linguistic group of people called the ‘Kurds’ that live here.

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The traditional Kurdish way of life was nomadic revolving around goat and sheep herding and the seasonal migrations in search for better grazing led to a “territory” that extends into Iran and Turkey in a loosely defined geographic region called Kurdistan (“Land of the Kurds”).  Due to enforcement of national boundaries after World War 1 (1914-1918), most of the Kurds abandoned their traditional ways for village life and settled farming (such as growing wheat, bailey and melons).  In fact, the Kurds are considered to be the largest group of nomadic people in the world who have remained stateless since the ‘beginning of time’. However, in the Zagros, remnants of this past existence and the “season rhythms” of rural Kurdish life can still be seen and felt. These few images help bring to life an old tradition that is under intense pressure from modern living and practices – but hopefully this way of life will not disappear.

The head shepherd or “Aga” (in Kurdish) controls the herding activities throughout the day that typically start before sunrise with support from the man shepherd or “Shwan”.  The girl and lady shepherd or “Bery” also take part primarily to help with the milking when the goats return from grazing and it all seems to be one big family affair.  The “doe” or “nannie” goats all que up in a rather regimented fashion ready for milking – but the holding of the animals in the open sun and heat of mid-summer is arduous work and requires a great deal of concentration.

For long treks into the mountains, a donkey or “Kurmanji” is a welcome form of transport for the herders usually accompanied by a shepherd dog called locally “pshdar”. The dog is very large and an ancient breed that originates from Turkey where it is better known as a “kangal”.  It’s not a true herding dog but rather a guardian that lives with the flock of goats and sheep to actively fend off predators of all sizes – including strangers which can be quite intimidating to experience. Spring is a very special time of the year in the Kurdish calendar, when during the March equinox (usually on the 21st), “Newroz” is celebrated to welcome the coming of spring. It is the Kurds New Year holiday and a time to dress with brightly colored and traditional clothes and dance together; and for the goats, a welcomed time to move to lush pastures after the long winter!

The gallery begins with a black and white exhibit followed by color to capture the different perspectives of mood and texture the rural tradition portrays.

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